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Bathtub refinishing is also known as bathtub resurfacing, bathtub reglazing, bathtub re-enameling, and bathtub refurbishing.  Regardless of the term used, bathtub refinishing is simply a "sprayed-on" process that can make a worn, damaged bathtub look like new again.  

This like-new appearance cannot be achieved with Do-It-Yourself products.  Only a professional refinisher has access to the high-tech, durable coatings that are required to give a bathtub its shiny new appearance.  More importantly, only a seasoned, professional refinisher has the tools and skill to apply the surface correctly.

Our turnaround time for getting a bid to you is really fast if you have the ability to email some basic information to us. On all bid requests, please include the property address and zip code, as well as your deadline for having the work completed so that we can check to see if we service your area and can meet your timeframe.  

Go to our QUICK BID page, then send the information requested to Debbie@SharpRefinishing.com.  Do that during business hours, and we'll email a bid to you that same day, maybe within minutes.  It's that simple.

TIME and MONEY!  If you can buy a new bathtub for the same cost as having one refinished, why not just buy a new tub?  That is the million dollar question!  You 'can' buy a brand new bathtub for the same cost as refinishing a bathtub, but you can't replace a bathtub for the same cost as refinishing!  What?  Why?  

Unless you're gutting your bathroom down to the studs, there's no need to replace your bathtub, even if it IS old and ugly - especially if it is a porcelain-over-cast-iron bathtub.  That's why refinishing is for!  Because houses are built around bathtubs, and the most expensive part of replacing a bathtub is definitely not the cost of the new tub.  As a matter of fact, most of the expense of replacement is initially hidden.

What are some of these hidden costs?  Removal and disposal:  Can you physically remove the tub yourself - get it out of the bathroom and through the front door - and if you can, how will you dispose of it?  If you do get that far, in the process of removing the tub, part of the bathroom tile must be torn out, and the hardware for the new tub may not fit the old plumbing fixtures at all, requiring you to hire a plumber and a tile setter as well.  On and on it can go.  That's how you could easily end up spending thousands of dollars replacing a bathtub, and THAT'S why refinishing is such a great alternative to replacement.

When you're looking for the most cost-effective way to update the look of your home, consider refinishing your perfectly good bathtubs - instead of replacing them.  There is no need to deal with the mess and chaos for days on end of tearing out plumbing, ripping up floors, and damaging walls to replace bathtubs and walls that are still in good working order just because you want to update the color scheme or they have become stained, scratched, cracked, or otherwise damaged.  

You can update the entire look of your bathroom just by having the items in them refinished so that they coordinate  with your new décor - in a fraction of the time it would take to replace these items ... and at a fraction of the cost of replacing them. THAT'S why refinishing is THE time-and-money saving alternative to replacement . 

Homes built prior to 1978 are likely to contain lead-based porcelain.  Encapsulation, which is essentially the permanent or semi-permanent covering of the source of the lead, is what refinishing does (encapsulates the lead-based porcelain to prevent it from leaching into the water).

Homes older than the 1960’s have an even greater chance of containing lead-based items.  If an old porcelain item has a deteriorating or chipping surface, there is a risk for lead poisoning.  If the porcelain lead surface is still very glossy, the risk of lead exposure is less.  When the surface has become worn or chalky, it poses the greatest risk. 

Successful refinishing greatly depends on how well the surface is prepared before the actual refinishing takes place, and preparation steps differ depending on the type of surface being refinished (porcelain vs. fiberglass vs. acrylic vs. cultured marble).

All surfaces must be thoroughly cleaned and repaired first as the foundational step.  On porcelain, we use an acid to etch the surface.  On fiberglass and acrylic, we use a wet/dry sandpaper to "rough up" the surface so our product has something to adhere to.  All areas not being refinished are completely protected.  

There is SO much labor and time involved in prepping a bathroom to ensure there is no overspray, and that fumes and dust particles are kept to a minimum while spraying.  All the areas not being sprayed are completely protected using drop cloths, plastic, and masking paper, and a ventilation exhaust system is used to control, vent, and filter out and away the spray and fumes.

One of the comments we hear time and again is how meticulous Jim is as he goes about his work.  He has mastered the art of refinishing and continues to be meticulous in every step of his work - truly an artist in his refinishing skills!  Here is just one of these testimonials from a customer who had us come back to refinish a second tub in his home:  "Hi Debbie ... another beautiful refinishing job!   Jim puts so much prep into it - I think the part you don’t see is as beautiful as the finished job. Thanks so much!" 

From start to finish, it takes about 5-6 hours to refinish a bathtub.  The process will dry to the touch in about 12 hours.  The paper and plastic laid on the floor and put up on the walls to protect the bathroom from overspray can be removed and the tub re-caulked in as little as 24 hours.  The bathtub is ready for use 48 hours after refinishing, but will take a full 20 days for the bathtub to totally 'cure.'

To put the 'downtime' into perspective: If we're refinishing your tub on a Monday, you can use the tub that morning before we come out, and then you can use it again on Wednesday morning, so you're really only without the use of the tub for one full day. 

Ours doesn't!  In fact, it is impossible for an untrained eye to tell the difference between a brand new bathtub and one that has been refinished by us.  

Regarding the smell, we use a filtering system to reduce the fumes that naturally occur with the use of solvents, and we also vent out (through the nearest door or window) any fumes during spray-time (which is only about one hour of the entire 5-6 hour process).  Although you may notice a slight odor during the spray time or after we are finished, this is typically gone within a few hours.  Over the years, we've found that very few people (about 1%) are hypersensitive to smells and may choose to leave the area while the work is being done.

If we're refinishing a bathtub, please have everything removed from the bathroom walls, off the top of the countertops, and from around the bathtub, including the shower curtain (and rod, if it is removable), so we will have plenty of room to work and can protect the bathroom from overspray with paper, plastic, and drops.

IMPORTANT: If there are shower doors on the tub, they must be removed before we arrive.  If you prefer for us to remove the doors (this does not include disposing of them or re-installing them), there is an additional $75 charge.  Also, electricity and lights, access  to water, and a climate-controlled (a/c and heat), semi-sterile environment are required to do our work. 

The reason I'm even listing this question is because so many people ask it when doing their research to determine which refinishing company to hire, and they are asking this question because not all refinishing companies use the same kind of product for refinishing.  So which is the best?

We can only speak for our product.  Throughout our 45+ years experience, we have learned there are three things that ensure successful refinishing:  (1) the type of product used, (2) the foundational preparation, and (3) the skill of the refinisher.  We have chosen to use the very best refinishing coating available.  It's more expensive than other coatings, but the end result is magnificent in terms of the way a refinished item looks, cleans, feels, and holds up over time.

Technically speaking, the process we use is a two-component urethane, however, it is not an epoxy.  Epoxies dry brittle and will 'yellow' over time, but our coating will not.  In addition to that, our product has a vinyl base which allows the refinished surface to expand and contract in hot and cold water without cracking out. 

Yes, a bathtub can be refinished again ... and again, but the existing coating will have to be stripped off completely - all the way back down to its original porcelain finish before a new finish can be applied.  Additionally, our 45+ years of experience has taught us that the bottoms of previously refinished bathtubs develop pinholes, pock marks, and dimples that may or may not be seen with the naked eye.  However, once we start to spray on the new finish, these flawed areas begin to appear.   To help reduce this problem prior to refinishing, we fill in these flawed areas with Bondo to build them up, then gently sand them smooth as part of the prep phase.  We call this process "skinning" the tub. 

No.  We do not have a refinishing facility. All of our work is done in customers' homes because we require electricity and water for the prep, and a semi-sterile, climate-controlled environment to do the work, which means we cannot refinish items outside or in a garage. 

Yes!  We've been doing chip repair for homebuilders and homeowners across the Dallas/Fort Worth metroplex for many years.  From hammers dropping into the tub, to soap dishes, shower heads, and towel bars falling off the wall, chips can happen in homes under construction, in homes just built, and in homes lived in for years!

The good news is, just because a tub has chips, nicks, or scratches, it doesn't necessarily mean it has to be completely refinished.  If the damage is located above the water line, it can be repaired without being refinished afterward.

Maybe.  Over the years, we have had to make so many repairs to chips caused by a handheld shower head spray arm falling and chipping the sides and bottom of bathtubs.  So ... let us recommend one we have used in our home for the past 10 years.  

The brand name is Ana Bath, and it can be purchased on Amazon HERE.  We do not receive compensation for this referral.  We simply recommend this shower head because the hose is shorter than most, so if it's dropped, there may be less chance of causing damage to your tub.  Also, the hose is extremely flexible, making it easy to use. 

Your bathtub may feel a little more slippery for a few weeks after refinishing.  Just remember that you cannot use a mat on a bottom of a refinished tub, because moisture will eventually build up between the mat and the refinished surface, causing it to bubble and peel.  Our warranty does not cover this kind of damage.

If you must use a mat, there is a workaround, but only if you are disciplined enough to remove the mat each and every time it is used, and then hang it over the towel bar (not the tub saddle) to dry.  If you choose to do this, we would recommend this non-suction bath mat.  Please note we do not guarantee this mat in any way, although their company advertises it on Amazon as recommended specifically for refinished tubs. 

Wherever there is damage in a bathtub, all of it (nicks, cuts, chips, scratches, rust, stains) must be repaired before the bathtub can be refinished in order to guarantee our work.  Over time, bathtub finishes will naturally develop pinholes, pock marks, dimples, or other kinds of flaws that may or may not be seen with the naked eye.  

Some porcelain bathtubs are manufactured with anti-slip bottoms that have been sandblasted into the porcelain finish, so they are even more prone to these inherent flaws.  Once we start to spray on the new finish, these flawed areas may begin to appear.  To help reduce this problem prior to refinishing, we fill in these flawed areas with Bondo to build them up, then gently sand them smooth as part of the prep phase.  We call this process "skinning" the tub, and it is part of the repair process.  

Please note our warranty is specifically related to the two things under our control:  workmanship and product defects.  Rust repairs on porcelain bathtubs are warrantied for the original repair only, because steel or cast iron tubs may continue to rust from the inside out.

Also, we cannot guarantee that cracks or holes won't reappear later in a bathtub due to the underlying source of the damage (possibly a house shift, improper initial installation, water leak, or previous damage to the same area) being unknown and unresolved. 

Our warranty is based on Newton’s First Rule in the Law of Motion (the law of inertia), which is that "an object will remain at rest or in a uniform state of motion unless that state is changed by an external force."  To apply that principle to bathtub refinishing means that a refinished surface can only be breached by an outside source.  

We warranty our bathtub refinishing work for 3 years against bubbling and peeling due to workmanship or product defects, with the following exclusions:

· CHIPPING: A surface can chip whether or not it’s been refinished, so if your refinished surface does get chipped, keep the area as dry as possible and contact us to schedule a repair (a $275 minimum repair charge will apply).  Timing is especially important if the chip is located below the water line, because water can eventually work its way beneath the refinished surface and cause the refinished surface to bubble and peel, making it impossible to repair if the area gets too large.

· MOISTURE ENTRAPMENT:  Leaving items like soapy bottles, jars, washcloths, or bar soap on a refinished surface can cause moisture to get trapped between these items and the refinished surface, causing the surface to bubble and then peel when picking up the item.  We recommend using a shower caddy or soap dish in the bath area to avoid this issue.

· UNREPAIRED LEAKS:  Even infrequent dripping or leaking water on a refinished surface, especially near the drain, may cause it to eventually bubble and finally start to peel.  Don't let a leaky faucet go un-repaired.

ABOUT REPAIRS: Our warranty is specifically related to the two things under our control:  workmanship and product defects.  We cannot guarantee that rust, cracks, or holes won't reappear later in a bathtub, shower, sink, or shower floor if the underlying source of the damage (possibly a house shift, improper initial installation, water leak, or previous damage to the same area) has not been identified and corrected.

A professionally repaired or refinished surface looks, feels, and cleans like brand new, so be sure to use only mild, non-abrasive products without bleach for cleaning.  In addition to that, use only a non-abrasive sponge or damp cloth when cleaning, because as with any new surface, the finish or shine can be dulled or damaged by abrasive applicators.

Although most liquid and foam 'green' cleaners purport to be safe, you must always read the label yourself to determine whether they contain bleach or abrasives (never use Kaboom!).  We recommend using diluted Simple Green Ready to Use, or even a wet soapy washcloth.  In any case, always be sure to thoroughly rinse away your cleaning solution each time you clean.  For optimal results, maintain a non-silicone caulking around all refinished surfaces, especially bathtubs.  

Here are some things that you do NOT want to do to a refinished surface:

· Do not set or leave items like wet or soapy bottles, jars, washcloths, or bar soap on bathtub or sink ledges, or on countertops, because it can cause moisture build-up between those items and the refinished surface, which can lead to peeling, voiding your warranty.  Use a shower caddy in the bath area.

· Do not allow metal or hard plastic toys in a bathtub, as they can deeply scrape and even break the refinishing seal.

· Do not bathe animals in a bathtub, as their claws could breach the surface.

· Do not let a leaky faucet go unrepaired.  Even infrequent dripping or leaking water can eventually cause surface bubbling and peeling.

· Do not use any kind of hair dye, colored bath oils, or bath bombs in a refinished bathtub, sink, or shower.   Also, if you have dye in your hair, do not rest your head on the back of the tub, as the chemicals could penetrate the surface.

· If you ever use a mat on the bottom of a refinished bathtub, do not leave it there.  You must remove it after each use (drape over towel bar, not tub saddle) to avoid moisture build-up between the mat and the tub, which can lead to peeling, voiding your warranty.

· If you have a known low spot in your tub, be sure to brush the water away from that area after bathing or showering so that water will not "pool" there and possibly cause the surface to bubble and peel.